Umbria, Italy: Cook, Eat, Drink, and Repeat
Leah Walker January 4, 2013

Rain pelted the Umbrian region of Italy the day before I arrived. Fields were flooded, trains didn’t run, roads were closed, but I would have never known it from the blue skies above Chiusi Station.

il fontanaro1

Emerging from a green Land Rover and running towards me was Alina, one of the owners of Il Fontanaro. Although only a few minutes late, she was a bit frazzled due to the area’s road closures, as much of the rain had yet to subside. In the very back of the Land Rover were two giant chocolate labs, no doubt relishing the short road trip. I managed to get my over-stuffed and over-sized suitcase into the car and eagerly climbed into the front seat.

il fontanaro38

In the short, thirty-minute drive through the spectacular Umbrian countryside, Alina pointed out flooded fields, old churches, and small villages, including the one she grew up in, Paciano. As we made our way through the narrow, rural roads, I felt as if I’d seen it all before. This was quintessential Italy to me, the stuff of movies, but so much better. Despite it being early winter, I imagined the fields filled with sunflowers looking like a yellow blanket over the rolling hills.

il fontanaro27

Driving through the iron gates of Il Fontanaro and seeing the farm made me want to call a mortgage broker and buy my own Italian dream just like Diane Lane’s character in Under the Tuscan Sun. The gravel driveway led to the rock and brick farmhouse, which looked nothing like the Texas farmhouses I was used to.“If this is what being an Italian farmer is like then sign me up,” I thought as I surveyed the property. A nice-sized vegetable garden, green house, and villa were set off to the side, but the centerpiece, besides the spectacular surroundings, was the beautiful main house.

il fontanaro25

 

il fontanaro28

il fontanaro29

Throughout the immediate property were pockets of heaven, places where you could imagine spending a lifetime. Plants in terracotta pots lined brick ledges, a hammock hung from trees, and cozy tables and chairs provided the perfect spots to relax and take in the views. Pomegranate trees held on to their last remaining fruit and olive trees were ready to be harvested. It was love at first sight for me.

il fontanaro26

Just steps from the main house was my villa. Named Leccino after a type of olive grown in central Italy, it was perfect. A large living room decorated with yellows, greens, and blues greeted me. A ceramic wood-burning stove provided some warmth from the slight nip in the air. On the kitchen table was a bottle of wine, honey, and olive oil, all organic and made at Il Fontanaro. I lugged my giant suitcase into the bedroom where I lamented the fact that I was only there for one night. After a week on the road, I appreciated the home-like feel.

il fontanaro23

il fontanaro

il fontanaro37

Alina gave me a little time to settle in, but Walks of Italy arranged a cooking class and there were six courses on the menu. Between my house and the villa was a small stocked kitchen where the classes are held. Lucia, Alina’s mother, had my recipe book and apron ready to go. On the wooden table in the center of the kitchen were various Italian meats and cheeses to stave off my hunger and a bottle of wine to wash it all down with. Had I known the veritable feast I was in for I think I would have not been quite so gluttonous with the starter.

il fontanaro36

il fontanaro34

il fontanaro33

Fresh fruits and vegetables from Lucia’s garden were scattered throughout. It reminded me of being in my grandmother’s kitchen. In the summers, we always had home-grown food from the garden. I’d forgotten how much I missed the sight, smell, and taste of that. Lucia pointed to a bowl of freshly-cut apples and a pile of resting dough. The first thing we cooked was an apple strudel, which struck me as odd. Lucia explained that she had family near the Italian-Austrian border and she’d grown up eating the dish.

il fontanaro32

il fontanaro12

The table was cleared and flour was spread onto the cutting board top. It was time to make homemade pasta. Unsuccessful in previous pasta-making attempts, I had a feeling of slight trepidation. Alina guided me through the process and let me in on her little secret: add sparkling wine and premium-quality olive oil, but leave out the salt. I blended and kneaded the ingredients until Alina’s approval was given then sliced the dough into ribbons. This pasta would be used for the ragu sauce.

il fontanaro35

il fontanaro15

Three kinds of meat all with distinct white marbling were unwrapped from the butcher paper. I could tell this ragu sauce would be super rich. Tomatoes, fresh herbs and spices, wine, and who knows what else were poured into the pot and left for hours to simmer down into a thick sauce. I’ll tell you that of all the things I ate during my month in Europe, that this dish was my absolute favorite.

il fontanaro31

il fontanaro30

il fontanaro14

What would an Italian meal be without multiple courses filled with carbs?  Using fresh pumpkins, next we made a risotto. This is where things start to get a little foggy. Since Alina is a sommelier, the wine was flowing. It would have been rude of me not to try everything she presented, right? I do, however, remember the taste of the sweet roasted pumpkin mixed with the creamy risotto. Delizioso!

il fontanaro21

il fontanaro22

il fontanaro18

 Lucia pulled out the beautiful piece of tenderloin after browning it in a skillet and laid it on a piece of plastic wrap. Surrounded by a bed of fresh rosemary, she began to sprinkle whole red and black peppercorns atop the meat. Lucia continued to pile fresh herbs onto the tenderloin before wrapping it up in the plastic and tying the ends with string. Into the oven it went where its delicious smell would tease me for the next hour.

il fontanaro20

il fontanaro13

 A good five hours of cooking, eating, and drinking had passed. Alina still had food on her mind. After all, she hadn’t made her famous carbonara yet. I only slightly pleaded with her not to make it. I’d missed having good carbonara since I’d left Rome two years earlier and despite my full stomach, still had an appetite for the rich pasta dish. I watched Alina work almost mindlessly making her special dish. It was inherent, and I could tell she’d made it a million times. In less than twenty minutes, the steaming bowl of carbonara was on the table ready to be shared. I relished the flavor that the pig jowel brought to the dish. I imagined that it was the key ingredient.

il fontanaro9

il fontanaro8

il fontanaro7

 On our fifth, sixth, or seventh bottle of wine, Lucia, Alina, Lola, and I all relaxed around the family’s table in the main house. By this time we weren’t just customers paying for their private cooking class. We had become friends. It’s amazing how breaking bread and sharing wine can do that to people.

il fontanaro17

il fontanaro16

 The four of us chatted for hours at that table. Lucia shared the history of the farmhouse and how she and her husband developed it into its current condition. Alina spoke of how she’d been born in Rome, but that her family wanted to raise her brother and her in the country. They both talked about the people they welcome from all over the world. Many are now friends and return each year.

il fontanaro10

il fontanaro11

 Listening to the mother and daughter talk I realized that Il Fontanaro is not just special because of its surrounding beauty. The place is special because of the family that built it. The olive oil, honey, and wine produced is made with pride and love from the area. It’s an editable snapshot of the culture and tradition of the families that have lived there for generations. The fact that I was fortunate enough to experience this made me feel blessed.

After a round of espressos, Alina wanted to show off her pride and joy. With a flashlight in hand, she led me down a flight of stairs under my villa. Behind the heavy, wooden door was the most impressive private wine collection I’d ever seen. As I mentioned, she is a sommelier, and her collection showed that. There must have been over 2,500 bottles of wine from around the world. The room was meticulously organized and each bottle was placed with care. Some were tagged, and I figured those must be the extra-special bottles. I wondered how long it took her to amass this many bottles and how she decided on just what to buy. This room was simply fascinating.

il fontanaro5

il fontanaro4

il fontanaro6

 I’d only gotten to the farmhouse hours prior, but I felt like I was home. Lucia and Alina made certain I felt that way. I look forward to seeing Alina in New York City in a few weeks and returning to Il Fontanaro in the summer for some more of Lucia’s tenderloin and apple strudel. Next time I hope to be a little more helpful in the kitchen. After all, I’ll be returning as a friend, not simply a customer.

Thanks to Walks of Italy for providing the private cooking class. I was a guest of Walks of Italy, but as always, the opinions are true and my own. A special thank you goes to Alina and Lucia for welcoming me into their home.

Leah Walker

Leah's a luxury travel and food writer who has as many stories as she does shoes. She documents her experiences whether that's in the lap of luxury or riding through a swamp in an airboat. Leah freelances and has contributor/editor roles with The Daily Meal, The Daily Basics, Bonjour Paris, France Today, Luxe Beat Magazine, Four Seasons Magazine, Forbes Travel Guide, and is a travel ambassador for Atout France USA. Leah's thrilled to call Paris home after being awarded the coveted three-year Compétences & Talents visa from France, though her talents don't extend to speaking French. Yet.

36 Comments

  1. Looks absolutely delightful Leah! Must have been fascinating to listen to Lucia talk about the history of her family and share tales from growing up. And to learn about the wine, the food….that is where the culture of a country stems from! What a wonderful experience.

    1. It really was, Anita. It’s always special when someone is willing to share a piece of themselves like Lucia and Alina did. The food and wine was icing on the delicious cake.

  2. LOVE IT. i’m starved now. people have been asking what was my favorite experience & i have to say even though i’m not great cook, this was the most special day. Alina & Lucia are truly hostesses with the most gracious welcoming way.

  3. Wow! This looks amazing. I have yet to visit Umbria, but I would love to cook (and more importantly, eat and drink) there. Love the photos!

    1. That’s kind of what I did…eat and drink with a little bit of cooking. I confess that the more I ate and drank the less I cooked. Get there ASAP. It’s spectacular.

  4. This looks exactly like the kind of experience I would like to have next time I’m in Italy. I hope to stay in the countryside and have a chance to connect more with the landscape and local food. Looks like a fantastic experience and gorgeous place!

    1. Absolutely, Jenna. Get out of the cities and head to the country. I really wish I had more time to explore. It’s such a relaxed environment, and the view ain’t bad either.

    1. Oh yeah, I remember your cooking class. I got to keep the recipe book and even made the carbonara on Christmas eve. It wasn’t nearly as good as Alina’s though.

  5. I love cooking classes and this looks like great fun. I wasn’t aware of the Walks of Italy so I’ll definitely have to look into that, since I live only an hour or so from Italy and go often. Thanks for the lovely piece and fantastic photos!

    1. Thanks! Lucky you living so close to all that amazing food. I’d check out Walks of Italy. Everything I did with them was first rate and the guides and hosts were great people.

  6. the hubs and i did a cooking class in tuscany on our honeymoon and it was also one of our best days in italy. this looks like perfection!! xo the romantic

    1. I’m not sure that I actually “learned” anything, but I can say I did it with some great help. Try it. Perhaps you’ll be a better student than me.

  7. Leah, I have to say I am blown away by your photography as of late, especially the subjective photos if people and objects! What camera are you using? It all looks so scrumptious, and I think I’d die and go to food heaven in Italy!

    1. Well….thank you, Ryan. I’m using the same old Nikon D50 that I’ve used for over a year. I did get a new lens (50 mm) in the spring, but nothing special or new. And yes, Italy is a food heaven I’d gladly die in, or at least get really fat.

  8. Great photos! I think I would not have left the villa for the cooking class – that looked so beautiful! Glad you guys had such a great experience!

    1. You got that right, Raul. I didn’t want to leave. An extra day just relaxing with leftovers would have been perfectly fine with me.

  9. Great photography, thanks for sharing!

    Italians and their food, what a story! We recently went to the Southern Puglia region and god, is the food good! At Masseria Bagnara we happened to walk into a Italian style luncheon event. Man, you eat until 4 or 5 pm! But yes, it’s worth it 😉

    1. First off, thank you!

      And yes, the Italians and their food. It makes me happy just thinking about it. And hours of eating? Yes, please. Haha!

  10. Oh yes- This all looks very Italian. I don’t think living that kind of life would be too hard. Great food & a beautiful villa- what more could a person ask for?

    1. Thanks, Fiona. I’m not sure exactly where I came up with “edible snapshots” but I’m kind of fond of it myself. I’d like to hit Venice the next time I go. I seem to remember a great post you did on your trip there.

Your comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox

Join other followers

Have the world delivered to your inbox
Well, maybe not the whole world, but some of it. Either way, subscribe to my monthly newsletter. I'll include my latest articles from around the Web, travel announcements, and maybe even a few Paris insider tips.