When Iโm home I rarely cook. Itโs not that I canโt cook, but rather donโt see the value in spending all that time making a meal when a sandwich will satisfy my hunger. This mentality must seem odd coming from someone who writes so much about food, but frankly, Iโm not a picky eater despite all the world-class meals I get to eat.
What also might seem strange is the fact that I really love taking cooking classes when I travel. Iโve learned how to make pizza in Rome, sushi in Maui, and a host of Italian dishes in my daylong class in Umbria. Iโve attempted strudel making in Budapest, which is very difficult, as it involves stretching dough so thin that one must be able to read the newspaper through it. Cooking classes provide insight into the culture and history of a place, and also allow me to interact with locals. Thus, this summer when I spent 48 hours in Budapest with Kensington Tours, I requested an itinerary focused on culinary, wine, and sightseeing. Thatโs exactly what my private guide, Sรกndor, delivered.
The first order of my action-packed day was a goulash making class at Fakanรกl {Wooden Spoon} Restaurant located in the Great Market Hall {aka Central Market Hall}. Found at the Pest end of Liberty Bridge, the market is a beautiful three-story building built in the late 1890s and a must-visit while in Budapest. During World War II, the market was seriously damaged and closed. Extensively restored in the mid 1990s, itโs still an important place for locals to shop. Historical photos can be seen on the walls of the second floor.
At only 9 am, the Great Market Hall was a bit quiet. The ground floor had a smattering of Hungarians buying fresh fruit, vegetables, and meat for the meals ahead, while the second floor was all but deserted. Vendors selling Hungarian souvenirs were straightening their booths, and a few locals sat around drinking coffee and eating langoโdeep-fried dough similar to a funnel cake thatโs topped with sour cream and cheese. Food stall workers were bustling getting ready for the lunch rush, but other than that, I had the place to myself.
My goulash guru, Erik Baumann, was waiting for me inside of Fakanรกl Restaurant. This giant of a man with a shaved head and goatee looked more like an action movie hero than a cooking instructor. Located in the dining room of the large restaurant was a stovetop and next to it was a long table filled with all of the necessary goulash ingredients, knives, and cutting boards. All business, Erik was ready to get started.
I was given a brief history of Hungarian goulash. Meaning โherdsmanโ in Hungarian, goulash gets its red color from the spicy Hungarian paprika, which was brought to the country by the invading Turks.
It was made VERY clear that the dish is NOT the same as in the Czech Republic, which is thicker, uses less vegetables, not as spicy, and served with houskovรฉ knedlรญky {Czech dumplings}. I quickly figured out that Hungarian goulash also is nothing like my fatherโs goulash, which is basically all the leftovers in the refrigerator made into a soup. No, I was going to make the Hungarian versionโa somewhat spicy stew served with bread on the side.
Once the history lesson was complete, we moved on to the actual cooking. I attempted to cut the vegetables as swiftly and effortlessly as Erik, but losing a finger was not on the itinerary, so I deferred to him. We browned meat, poured in the already measured spices, threw in the chopped vegetables, and voilร โthe one-pot dish was on its way to becoming traditional Hungarian goulash.
Not having the two hours to tend to the pot while it simmered, Erik just happened to have a bowl prepared for me. I took my seat at the table covered with a red-checkered tablecloth and had my first taste of real goulash. It was good. Actually, I should say it was really good. It had a real kick of spice, which is something I love and donโt get much of when visiting Europe. I soaked up the liquid with bread and savored the flavors before washing it down with a Hungarian red wine. So what if it was only 10 am. When in Hungary, right?
Temperatures have finally dropped below 90 in Texas, and I think itโs about high time I whip up a pot of Erikโs traditional goulash. If youโd like to do the same, Iโve included his recipe below. Let me know how it turns out, or better yet, send me some.
Traditional Hungarian Goulash
Serves four people
400 g shin of beef
2 Spanish onions
10 cl oil
pinch of salt, pepper, caraway seeds
1 teaspoon paprika {Hungarian spicy, not sweet}
5 cloves of garlic
1 carrot
1 parsnip
ยผ celerac
1 bunch of celeriac leaves
500 g of potatoes
1 sweet pepper
1 tomato
Preparation:
Cut the meat into small cubes.
Finely chop the onion and garlic.
Cube the vegetables.
Fry the onion in hot oil until it becomes transparent.
Sprinkle with paprika and add a little water.
Add the meat, and flavor with salt, pepper, garlic, and caraway seed.
Place the sweet pepper and tomato on top.
Simmer for an hour, and then add the vegetables and potatoes.
As soon as the potatoes are tender the dish is ready to serve.
Serve the goulash with thick, rustic bread and a full-bodied red wine.
I was a guest of Kensington Tours. In no way was I swayed to write a positive review by the personalized and exclusive itinerary, Erikโs giant muscles, or the spicy goulash. As always, opinions are mine.
@mrsoaroundworld
October 17, 2013How interesting… I have actually never tried Goulash in my life, although we have something quite similar in Portugal ;0
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013There’s so many European cultures that have their own version of goulash. The fact that you haven’t tried it really surprises me.
Adelina
October 17, 2013The first time I had goulash in Hungary I was so surprised at how thin it was. Everyone describes it as a stew, but I would say it’s more of a soup. Either way, it’s delicious and no matter how much I try, I can never make it the same way as all my Hungarian friends.
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013I’m with you, I don’t care what you call it. Goulash is delicious!
Abby
October 17, 2013Yum! Will you please teach me how to shoot foot? Your photos are gorgeous!!
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013Thank you, Abby. I think food and drink are the easiest to photograph for me. If you can teach me landscapes, I’ll return the favor with food.
Laura @Travelocafe
October 17, 2013Love goulash! So yummy! It’s been a while since I had it though…
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013It’s been far too long since I’ve had it too. I guess I’ll make this recipe or surely, there’s a Hungarian restaurant in Houston. We have ever other kind of restaurant here.
Tom @ Waegook Tom
October 17, 2013I have two things that I’ve taken away from this post.
1. I want to bend over for that chef. Holy Daddy. Check out those arms.
2. That goulash looks soooo goooood! Seriously, any food in any culture that can be described as a spicy meat stew is good in my book, so this looks divine. I tried some when I was in Budapest, but the memory is a bit of a blur as I ended up doing shots in a ruin bar that night. Pretty sure it was delicious though.
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013I’m absolutely dying at so many things in your comment. Let me leave it at this: Yes, the goulash is very good.
karl
October 17, 2013I shouldn’t have read this while I was hungry! Nice read and Ill have to make an attempt at that recipe, thanks.
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013I suppose I should have put a word of caution at the beginning. I’ll remember that for next time.
Pola (Jetting Around)
October 18, 2013Leah, you look like a pro chef in the pic! What a fun experience and great photos. I have a Hungarian connection in the family, so I guess it’s no wonder that I use A LOT of paprika. Can’t go wrong with that.
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013Yeah, Pola, looking the part was just about the extent of my chef experience. I figure there’s a lot of intermingling with Polish and Hungarian. Y’all are so close in proximity.
Joy (My Traveling Joys)
October 18, 2013We’ve been to Budapest twice this year and absolutely loved this city as well as the Great Market Hall! Now, I now how to use all that Hungarian paprika I brought back with me! ๐
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013I’m absolutely kicking myself for not buying more paprika. I just can’t find the good stuff here in Houston. Let me know how this recipe works for you.
samantha
October 18, 2013Wow looks yummy! Never had goulash but would sure love to try it. Great food photos too!
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013Thanks so much! I guess I didn’t realize so many people hadn’t tried goulash. I just figured it was a pretty common thing.
Francesca (@WorkMomTravels)
October 18, 2013I’m not sure that I’ve ever had goulash… I’ll have to share the recipe with the hubs so he can make it. Because, as you know, he’s the cook around here. I’m with you: if I can eat a sandwich and not be hungry anymore, then a sandwich it is!
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013Well, I suppose coming from an Italian family, you might not have ever been exposed to goulash. I bet there is something similar from Italy, however. It reminds me of something that might be found in Tuscany. It’s rustic and uses lots of root vegetables and great meat. If your husband makes it, let me know how you like it.
Mary Anne
October 19, 2013Cooking lessons while on a trip are a fantastic way to bring home a souvenir without over filling your suitcase!
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013I agree, although it’s also a great way to get tighter pants!
Charu
October 19, 2013Nice photos! Of course there’s that beef element. I need to get a recipe that’s vegetarian.
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013I do have one they gave me that uses beans. There’s still the beef in there, but you could take it out. Everything else is the same.
Raul (@ilivetotravel)
October 19, 2013Well, I think you need to make this delicious looking dish for me some day – I mean, just to make sure you really learned how to make it ๐ I have had goulash before but in Bavaria so likely a little different from this one. Now I am hungry…
Leah Walker
October 19, 2013It’s really easy, Raul. If you’ll be my sous chef then I’ll make it.
Nicole | The Wondernuts
October 20, 2013That is such a cool experience. I would love to learn how to make a traditional gift from a pro. =)
Leah Walker
October 20, 2013Cooking classes are a unique and sometimes inexpensive way to get to know a culture and location. I’ve recently really gotten doing them. Although I’ve yet to replicate the dishes, it sure is fun to try.
Erin at The World Wanderer
October 20, 2013Looks delicious!! I could use some right now to help me finish fighting this cold! Thanks for the recipe. ๐
Leah Walker
October 20, 2013Ahhh…I’m sorry you’re sick. Surely all the spice would make you feel better.
Traveling Ted
October 21, 2013I am glad to know goulash is more than mixing leftovers in the fridge into soup. Mine would be a hot dog, pizza, bread, beer goulash. I think I would much rather just go to Hungary and eat there than improvise from my fridge.
Leah Walker
October 24, 2013Beer goulash might not be so bad. Hold the dog food though.
lola
October 22, 2013mmmm I loved trying lots of different varieties of goulash on my first visit to Budapest. making it sounds fun.
Leah Walker
October 24, 2013I think everyone has their own recipe, but I’m willing to test them all.
Taylor Hearts Travel
February 11, 2014I agree, a cookery class is a great way to learn about a particular culture. I love your disclaimer at the end – he does have big muscles!
Leah Walker
February 15, 2014I agree, both about learning about a culture and the muscles. He was huge!
margaret godfrey
September 15, 2014I have been to this cafe/restaurant in the market hall and in the four day in the lovely city of Budapest, myself, husband and two friends said this was the best goulash – and we had it at least once more here. Elsewhere it was good, but this was just the best. I want to replicate it at home.
Natalie @ In Natalie's Shoes
October 15, 2015Yum! I can attest that Czech gulas is MUCH different than Hungarian goulash, but both are delicious! I’m so glad you provided a recipe from your (amazing sounding) cooking demo. Thanks for sharing!
Nora (Food Tour Budapest)
March 11, 2016It is a great recipe! I am very glad you made this dish in Hungary, as it is originated from Hungary, and cooked different. I cook it similar, but with more paprika (actually 1 teaspoon mild and half teaspoon spicy), and less garlic. It is also nice with small noodles (csipetke:)