The best way to see Paris is on foot, but I think the best way to experience Paris is by sampling the phenomenal food and drinking copious glasses of wine. One of the best places to combine the two is in the Latin Quarter.
Located on the left bank in the 5th and part of the 6th arrondissement, the Latin Quarter was once known for its bohemian vibe. The Latin Quarter is home to no less than four universities, with the most famous one being the Sorbonne. Itโs now full of students and lively cafes and bars.
One rainy Monday evening in March, I decided to set out and see a part of Paris Iโd yet to experience. This tour included not only the Latin Quarter, but also all the typical French food Iโd yet to try. I was staying in a fabulous apartment not far from the Latin Quarter, but any hotel near the center of Paris would be convenient. So with camera and hand, I made the short walk to Le Deux Magots, which would serve as the starting point for my culinary crawl.
Les Deux Magots
This cafรฉ is located in Saint-Germain-des-Prรฉs and is quite the tourist destination. Itโs a classic French cafรฉ with its outside dining, but what I love about this place is its history. Ernest Hemingway and Pablo Picasso among others used to dine here. Iโm a sucker for Hemingway. The foodโs not bad either, but itโs priced as one would expect on a popular corner in Paris. I elected not to eat anything here this time around.
Directions to Stop One:
From Les Deux Magots take Rue des Canettes to Saint-Sulpice, the second largest church in the city behind Notre Dame. Then walk along the longest road in Paris, Rue de Vaugirard, past the Sรฉnat to Boulevard Saint-Michel. Head north on Boulevard Saint-Michel to the Sorbonne. From the Sorbonne, go south on Rue Saint-Jacques to Rue Clovis where youโll head east. This will take you to the Pantheon. Originally a church, this massive structure is a mausoleum for distinguished French citizens. Also next to the Pantheon is Sainte-Geneviรจve Library and Saint-รtienne-du-Mont Church, which contains the shrine to St. Geneviรจve, the patron saint of Paris. From the Pantheon, take Rue Clovis east to Rue Descartes south to Place de la Contrescarpe where youโll find your first stop.
Cafรฉ Delmas
Comfortable and charming, Cafรฉ Delmas is located in the famous Mouffetard Quarter. With its large terrace, itโs a great place to grab a bite to eat and a cocktail or glass of wine. On this, my first stop, I went all in by ordering escargot and duck pรขtรฉ. The escargot I loved. Whatโs not to love with so much butter and garlic involved? I could do without eating the duck pรขtรฉ again, but the lovely glass of Bordeaux did well in taking the taste out of my mouth.
Directions to Stop Two:
Go back the way you came where youโll pass by the north side of the Pantheon again. Circle around the Pantheon until you reach Rue Soufflot. Take Rue Soufflot to Rue Monsieur-le-Prince to the second stop.
Au Pรจre Louis Bistro
This two-story neighborhood bistro is near the Luxembourg Gardens and is basically a place where locals hang out, as I discovered upon my visit. The place was absolutely packed and I literately had to push my way to the bar. The best I can guess is there was some sort of engagement party going on. The fight to claim my spot was worth it. Not only did I have yet another glass of fabulous French wine, but I experienced my very first taste of aligot. My life changed for the better when I discovered this dish made from mashed potatoes blended with butter, cream, crushed garlic, and melted cheese. Aligot will be the first thing I eat when I return to France.
Directions to Stop Three:
Continue north on Rue Monsieur-le-Prince about two minutes where youโll reach the third stop.
L’avant Comptoir
This tiny hole-in-the-wall is often standing room only. It bills itself a crรชperie, wine bar, and place for hors d’oeuvres. It also specializes in pork; even the wine glasses have a pig silhouette. Since the order of the evening was to try something new, I ordered bird tongue soup. A broth-type soup with, you guessed it, tongues of birds, was just alright. It was nothing crazy or special. At least I can say Iโve eaten bird tongues though. Lโavant Comptoir is a great place to pop in for a quick bite and glass of wine.
Directions to Stop Four:
Head north on Rue de Conde to Boulevard Saint-Germain. Take that west to Rue de Seine to the first right, which is St. Clement.
ย JโGo (Saint Germain location)
Located in the shopping hall of Marchรฉ Saint-Germain, JโGo has a seasonal menu that uses in-season ingredients. It is a typically French restaurant that houses a giant leg of ham for all to ooh and ahhh over. I sat at the bar and had croquets and more wine. I remember enjoying the croquets and the wine (obviously), but thatโs just about it. Thatโs just one of the hazards of a culinary (wine) crawl through the streets of Paris.
Directions to Stop Five:
Take Rue de Seine north across Boulevard Saint-Germain to the fifth and final stop.
Bar Du Marchรฉ
This place serves food, although I didnโt have any. However, I did have some sort of vodka-fruity martini-type thing. On a rainy Monday night, this place was still lively. I seemed to be the only non-French person in the place, which is just fine by me. Oh, and the bartenders wore denim overalls, which is apparently fashionable in Paris. And, the place was really red, like whorehouse red.
Directions to the Starting Point:
Take Rue de Buci down to Boulevard Saint-Germain. From there, head west where Les Deux Magots will be on your right.
Itโs safe to say that by the end of this walking tour of the Latin Quarter, I was able to experience a part of Paris Iโd never seen. Ducking into small streets yielded even more surprises. I dined on many standard French dishes, loving some and feeling ambivalent about others. All in all, I loved this night in Paris. It was simply one of my favorites, and that includes dinner with Lionel Richie. I canโt wait to return to Paris and explore another area while stuffing my face and guzzling as much wine as my stomach will hold.
Erik
May 29, 2013Every meal I had in Paris was instantly in contention for “Best Meal Ever”. (Then again, so was just about every meal in Italy.
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013Oh my, you hit the nail on the head, Erik. I can’t believe I don’t weigh 30 pounds more given all the great meals I’ve eaten in Italy and Paris.
Cat of Sunshine and Siestas
May 30, 2013I took a course in college called “Paris and the Art of Urban Life” (in the art history department, to boot!). the class was mainly two professors who had taught at Parisian universities talking about places they’d eaten at during their Paris years. Your post took me back to when I would “study” my Michelin Green Guide for class, while my business student roommates poured over economics books. Look where it took me instead!!
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013Now that’s the kind of class I’d be happy to sign up for. What a cool thing!
@mrsoaroundworld
May 30, 2013It is fair to say I have two options, to go or to aller ๐ loved this!
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013Hahahahahahahah….that is all, Mrs. O. ๐
Hogga
June 3, 2013mmm i’d love to go to all of these places. Not sure about Magots though. it’s so close to maggots lol
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013I thought that too, but when the French say it Magots sounds heavenly. ๐
Sofia
June 5, 2013Thanks for the tips, we might be going there in a few days so this will be very useful!
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013Certainly. There’s about 22 other stops, but I got far too intoxicated and full to visit them all on this trip.
Kieu ~ GQ trippin
June 6, 2013These posts should come with a warning, Leah.. Dying to go back and eat my way through Paris again.
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013Sorry, Kieu. You, my dear, are the queen of posting food porn, so I don’t want to hear a word.
D.J. - The World of Deej
June 6, 2013Plenty of reasons to head back to Paris. I snapped the customary tourist photo of MJ at Le Deux Magots last time…
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013I have a photo there, too. It’s a must.
Anita Mac
June 6, 2013As always, your food posts have me hungry and leave me with the desire to get on a plane! Not sure about the bird tongue soup…do I dare ask if they tasted like chicken???? You are braver than me Leah – the bird tongues would not have been my top pick! The crepes on the other hand, look right up my alley!
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013Actually, it did taste like chicken. And I’m not sure if I was brave or drunk at that point. Either way, it wasn’t so bad.
Traveling Ted
June 6, 2013I keep getting attacked by red-winged blackbirds each time I run down this one path in Chicago. Bird’s tongue sounds great, but red-winged blackbird tongue soup sounds even better.
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013I’m not going to even pretend that I know what you’re talking about, Ted.
thelazytravelers
June 7, 2013JEALOUSY. that is all.
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013You both are about to be in France, so I don’t want to hear a word.
lola dimarco
June 9, 2013starving now. want to go back to PARIS STAT!!
Leah Walker
June 9, 2013It’s a date, Lola.
Iwana
April 26, 2017Hi there! 4 years down the road, is this still a good trek? Anything you would add or delete?