A trip to Toronto would be incomplete without at stop at St. Lawrence Market. Dating back to 1803, this historical place was named the best food market in the world by National Geographic. Talk about a ringing endorsement.
I met Bruce Bell, local celebrity, historian, and tour guide extraordinaire, at the entrance of the market. Knowledgeable and entertaining, Bruce was named the official historian of the St. Lawrence Market and Hall by the city of Toronto. Obviously, I was in the best of hands.
Always used as a place for the people of Toronto to buy food, St. Lawrence Market has also housed the city council on the second floor and served as a jail in the basement. Destroyed by the great fire in 1849, the market was rebuilt in the style of the great markets of Europe. One look at the soaring ceiling, rafters, and windows and you’ll see the resemblance.
At 10:00 on a Thursday morning, the market was a bit quiet. Bruce explained that Saturday mornings are the busiest, as locals buy their groceries for the week, while visitors are on the tourist trail. Frankly, I enjoyed having the market basically to myself. There were no crowds to push through or lines to wait in, but it wouldn’t be that way for long.
A walk through the ground floor of the market demonstrates the diversity of Toronto. Fruits and vegetables that I’d only seen in Asia, exotic meats, and obscure {at least to me} fish varieties fill the cases of the stalls. Whitehouse Meats offers its customers things like camel sliders and buffalo short ribs, while Domenic’s Fish Market has some of the best-looking seafood around.
As a visitor to Toronto, St. Lawrence Market is the perfect place to grab lunch, but make sure to get there before or after noon. People working in the area clamor to eat at the various cooked food stalls, and the lines can get quite long. Buster’s Sea Cove is one such place. Grilled or fried, Buster’s serves up some delicious-looking seafood. Make sure you bring cash, because they don’t accept credit cards.
Perhaps the most famous stop in the market is Carousel Bakery for its legendary peameal bacon sandwich. Better known in the US as Canadian bacon, this sandwich has attracted chefs Emeril Lagasse and Bobby Flay and garnered mentions in Food and Wine, Saveur, USA Today, The New York Times, and countless others.
Slices of Canadian bacon are grilled and piled high on a country bun. Locals know to add honey mustard, which is lovely, but I like my food with a little spice. A couple of dashes of the Tabasco sauce I carry in my purse put the sandwich over the top. The salty bacon, combined with the sweetness of the mustard and the spice of the Tabasco, made for the perfect sandwich. It’s easy to see why Carousel Bakery has been in the same location for over 30 years.
When visiting St. Lawrence Market, don’t forget to check out the lower level. It’s filled with a world of options. Additional vendors offer everything from crepes {Crepe It Up Cafe} to Chinese {Yip’s Kitchen} to Greek {Yianni’s Kitchen} to Ukrainian {European Delight}. You could eat lunch here for weeks without duplication. Plus, if you’re with Bruce, he’ll show you were the jail once stood.
When in Toronto a trip to the St. Lawrence Market is a must. You can certainly let your nose lead the way around the building, but experiencing it with Bruce Bell makes the history of the place come alive. For 90 minutes, I learned not just about the market, but also more Toronto and Canadian history that I ever knew. It was definitely time well spent.
I was a guest of Tourism Toronto. In no way was I swayed to write a positive review based on the sub-90s August weather, my interesting conversations with cab drivers, or the friendly exchange rate. As always, opinions are mine. For more information on travel to Toronto, visit http://www.seetorontonow.com/.
Sue Sharpe (@suesharpe1)
September 15, 2013Wow – It looks just like the markets out here in Spain!
What I wouldn’t give, right now for a bacon sandwich!
Great article – super photos 🙂
Leah Walker
September 15, 2013That’s high praise, Sue. Spanish markets are wonderful! My stomach is growling just thinking about Iberian ham.
fotoeins | Henry
September 15, 2013I love it. And when I was in Toronto in April 2012 on my RTW, I was told to head over to Paddington’s Pump in the St. Lawrence Market. While we’d be forgiven if we simply spent an entire Toronto trip in the markets, I needed to be reintroduced to the Canadian style bacon. I was not disappointed. I should have had more. Thanks (again) for making me hungry, Leah!
Leah Walker
September 15, 2013Whoa! I don’t remember Paddington’s Pump. What do they have? Did I truly miss out on something divine?
fotoeins | Henry
September 15, 2013I dunno – I feel kinda left out I didn’t have the presence of mind to ask around in the Market and find out who else had some bacon …
But at Paddington’s?
http://instagram.com/p/JIZ_sDJIvj/ and http://instagram.com/p/JIaX3AJIvz/
Jennifer
September 15, 2013Nom, nom, nom! Sounds like a great place to eat your way through for a few hours.
Leah Walker
September 15, 2013Oh my, it’s a good way to pack on a few pounds, too.
@mrsoaroundworld
September 16, 2013I love visiting markets wherever I go. I think it tells you so much about a place. And bacon sandwiches? Well, please tell me which stall!
Leah Walker
September 16, 2013I agree, Ana. You learn so much about the culture of a place through the markets. It’s such a window into the pulse of a community.
Aaron
September 16, 2013Love that market. During TBEX weekend I gravitated right to the peameal bacon sandwich yum, no added spice for me though. 🙂 A foodie paradise for sure!
Leah Walker
September 16, 2013I think it’s missing a great place to get coffee, but I might have just missed it. Did you see one, Aaron?
Johnny
September 16, 2013That place would be nothing but trouble for me! All that yummy bacon I would put on more than a few pounds easily. I enjoy markets but have never been to or heard of this one. Nice that you had a guide to show you around.
Antoine
September 16, 2013Really interesting, I love this market even if it is quite expensive…
However, I really don’t understand how the National Geographic can name it “best food market in the world” ! Those guys need to travel. I expected something really extraordinary when I first visited it, and of course, I was a little disappointed.
But it is definitely a nice spot and a place to see in Toronto !
Leah Walker
September 16, 2013From what I understand National Geographic visited on a busy Saturday with the farmers’ market in the St. Lawrence Hall going full force. When I was there it was very quiet, but I can imagine it looking much different on the weekend.
Lance | Trips By Lance
September 16, 2013I love food markets. They can be fun and often provide a great meal. I drove by this market when in Toronto, but didn’t get a chance to stop in. It’s a really beautiful building.
Savi of Bruised Passports
September 17, 2013I always look forward to visiting food markets when I’m travelling (can you tell I’m a glutton?!) and this looks lush. It reminds me of local markets in Spain and France. That peameal bacon sandwich looks lush 🙂
lola
September 19, 2013interesting and delicious.
Hogga
September 19, 2013great lobsters
Leah Walker
September 24, 2013You’re a sucker for lobsters, eh?
Salika Jay
September 20, 2013St. Lawrence Market is a place I enjoyed going to when I was in Toronto. Wish I can have a bacon sandwich now 🙂
Leah Walker
September 24, 2013I’m thinking a bacon sandwich for breakfast this morning would be perfect! Let’s go.
Pola (Jetting Around)
September 21, 2013This is my far one of my favorite places to visit in Toronto, especially on a Saturday morning. Love the energy of the place and – of course – the great food.
Leah Walker
September 24, 2013I’d love to go back on a Saturday morning. I understand it has a totally different vibe than my Thursday morning visit. Plus, I may or may not want another peameal bacon sandwich.
Traveling Ted
September 22, 2013I somehow missed this little gem while in Toronto. I actually have a long list of gems I missed while in Toronto. Fortunately it is only a 9 hour drive away. I will gave to go back sans #RWTBEX and experience more of this interesting city.
Leah Walker
September 24, 2013I missed most of Toronto during TBEX, so I’m so very happy I got a chance to wander the city a bit. I’m a huge fan of Tornoto.
Laura @Travelocafe
September 28, 2013What a fun place! I love markets and always stop by whenever given the chance.